My Time in Ghana: Reflections on "Poverty" and African Life
- Mary Contrary
- Aug 15
- 6 min read
Updated: Sep 11
My Time In Ghana: During her filming trip to Ghana in the nineties, Mary Contrary, a perspectivator at heart, discovered aspects of African life which are so incredibly rich, they contrast sharply with the poverty and hardship often seen by Western visitors. This is her story.
"What do you like about this country? What do you see that I don’t see?" This question from the uplifting film The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel has always resonated with me. It was posed by one of the British characters in the film, a woman who was having difficulty seeing India beyond the negative aspects of hardship. It’s also a question often asked by Westerners travelling to countries like India.
"The light, the colours, the smiles. The way the people see life as a gift, a privilege — and not a right. All life is here," was the answer of the man who was one of her fellow travellers. Who, unlike her, was lucky enough to be able to see beyond the Western viewpoint.
I once had a similar experience in Africa, when I had the opportunity to spend some time in Ghana with a small film crew in the late 1990s. During my time there, I slowly began to see what the man who answered that question in the film also saw. But let me begin by setting the scene for you.
My Time In Ghana: Setting The Scene
At that time, we all lived in London. Our team consisted of our Director, a filmmaker from Ghana who introduced us to his family and village, and a passionate producer from Mexico who shared amazing mythical stories in the evenings. Moreover, there was an even more lively Irish film photographer, who was a story herself. And then there was me, doing my best to translate our script onto film.
The film's plot revolved around a man from Accra who returned home from London to see his mother. Upon arriving at Accra airport, he was unexpectedly greeted by the village elders and lifted into the air, as he had unknowingly been chosen as the new village elder after the passing of the previous one. And it all unfolded from there.
Anyway, we had boarded the plane in a freezing, snow-covered London and landed in the scorching heat of Africa. And while the weather presented a stark contrast, it wasn't the only contrast we would encounter.
So Many Contrasts
Working with Ghanaians and spending time in their homes and daily lives gave me the opportunity to connect with people who share their lives with me from their own perspective, not mine.
Their insights enabled me to view my life from a new perspective. I observed that people within this spiritual African culture generally lived fulfilling lives, unlike what most Westerners can imagine. Despite some negative aspects, I mostly encountered happy individuals whose happiness wasn't tied to Western priorities.
This fresh perspective, along with many others I encountered during my time in this enchanting country, wasn't a novel idea to me. However, it was the first time I could truly feel and experience it, rather than just knowing about it.
Urban Television
For example, there was the occurrence of the 'street TV.' The hostel where we stayed had a spacious rooftop terrace. Each evening, after a hot day of filming, we relaxed there with fellow travellers. The group was diverse, including locals, businessmen, backpackers, and women "from a certain profession". Sitting on the terrace with my cold beer, I began to notice that each evening below me the hostel manager would set up a TV outside, attracting people who gathered around with their own chairs.
Now, from a Western perspective, you might say: how unfortunate or odd for so many people to share a single TV. Well, let me tell you, there was nothing sad or strange about the scene unfolding every night below me. It was really quite simple: a joyful group of people entirely content with their shared TV, all the while enthusiastically shouting at an African soap opera or the news.
The Only Fridge in the Village
Then there was case of the refrigerator. After we finished filming (16mm, in case you're wondering), we needed to store our valuable film stock in a cool place. And so, each evening, as we navigated the dusty, culturally rich African landscape, moving beyond those stereotypical images of children, dogs, and chickens, we would open the small white door of that only refrigerator in the area and store our day's 'rushes' into our 'film saver,' nestled among the rice, peas, and chicken.
The point is, the family who lent us their refrigerator also invited us to dinner each time, allowing me to see that, despite being labelled as poor by Western standards, they were rich in their unconditional generosity and other qualities we might struggle to describe in the West.
Coastal Luxury
While travelling, we also ventured to the coast of Ghana and stayed at an incredibly beautiful spot. We marvelled at the breathtaking ocean both in the mornings and evenings when it turned into a perfect mirror. After exchanging stories to the rhythm of the drums along the coast, we would retreat to our cozy, colourful huts.
The guesthouse was owned by a woman who had previously run a restaurant bar in Camden, London, along with her Rastafarian husband. Some of my fellow film crew members and I actually knew that eatery in London, which was just one of the many coincidences we kept encountering during our Ghana adventure.
Initially, I worried about the lack of running water and electricity, but I soon realised I didn't miss them. In fact, my change in viewpoint revealed that the lack of modern conveniences wasn't a loss, but a gain. The situation had enriched my life in new ways, and this place eagerly lent itself to accommodate that new insight.
"My change in viewpoint revealed that the lack of modern conveniences wasn't a loss, but a gain. The situation had enriched my life in new ways, and this place eagerly lent itself to accommodate that new insight."
Contentment With How Things Are
During our stay at the ocean resort, a group of Europeans was researching a project to install sinks and electrical supplies for the local community, believing these amenities were needed. However, the people we met told us that they did not want this help at all.
Despite wishing to be able to afford better education and health care, when we met some local fishermen and their families, they too told us they were satisfied with their lives. They wouldn't want to trade places with us. In fact, one fisherman once returned my shoes and money left on the beach, and it took him three days to find my small hut. Even though the money equaled his monthly salary, this act highlighted his integrity over financial gain.
The Ancestors Have Perspectives Too
One hot day, we filmed a very special scene. The location was near a former royal building in Accra, and the village elders, under large, colourful umbrellas, were in the process of elevating the main character to a leadership position. The entire scene was overseen by priests and shamans who invoked ancestral spirits. They had requested real gin, and when we filmed the spitting of the gin, against the bright sunlight, it felt very natural.
During filming, I once turned around to find a group of children, elderly individuals, and dogs quietly watching, all sat there as silent as a breeze. The reason I describe this scene is that filming was so rare in this area, it underscored the stark contrast between our Western perspective and theirs.
My Time In Ghana: Time To Leave This African Life
As we prepared to return to London, the airport check-in became chaotic. I focussed on protecting our valuable film stock from X-rays, while our producer navigated the crowded airport to get help. Meanwhile, my Irish photographer friend, with a nervous director who knew the airport manager, managed to enter his office to seek permission to export some money and questionable souvenirs.
As I finally boarded the plane, I clutched a beaded puppet necklace, a gift from a friend in Accra. Strangely, only the necklace remained by the time we reached London; the doll seemed to vanish, perhaps reluctant to leave its magical African life.
Once I resumed my routine in London after my time in Ghana, my intentions to adopt a lifestyle more similar to what I'd experienced there had vanished, and I quickly fell back into my old habits. What remained, however, were the memories, experiences, and vivid images of the vibrant African life and my new outlook on life. Rather than Ghanaians needing our Western help, I think I needed their help for the fresh perspective they offered me. Thank you, Ghana!
"Rather than Ghanaians needing our Western help, I think I needed their help for the fresh perspective they offered me. Thank you, Ghana!"
About The Author: Mary Contrary
Mary Contrary is a natural-born perspective creator. Her stories give us a different perspective on life than we might have ourselves. In any case, Mary never shies away from being a little contrary. That's what makes life interesting, she says. Mary lives somewhere that's not exactly nature nor a village, and in the evenings, she enjoys watching the bat show with her dogs.
