The New World of Vegetable Cooking: An Interview with Frank Fol
- femkevaniperen
- 5 days ago
- 7 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
Chef Frank Fol presents a world where vegetables take centre stage over meat. Can we change our views on food? Chef Fol believes not only is it possible, but it's already happening. Here's his story.
Not too long ago, we might have believed that a meal centered around vegetables was lacking or unhealthy. Renowned vegetable chef Frank Fol introduces us to a whole new cuisine full of flavour, colour, and magic, both in top restaurants and at home. A new world, he says, that is here to stay. This is his story.
Chef Fol, welcome to Perspective Living. To begin, you travel the world in search of the best plant-based cuisine: who is the Vegetable Chef®?
I have dedicated over 30 years to plant-based cooking. From the start, it was all about creativity and the idea that a chef could make an impact by incorporating more vegetables. That it could be done in a creative way: making them the star of the dish. And that meat could become secondary to vegetables.
This approach was my starting point. Over the years, we have added the health aspect of food. We needed to adopt a healthier and more sustainable lifestyle, which involved eating less meat and more vegetables. It has been quite an evolution over the past three decades.
In 2009, I launched 'the best vegetable restaurant', which led to the creation of the We're Smart® Green Guide. Back then, I put in a lot of effort to cultivate numerous ambassadors—essentially a thousand Frank Fols—who would share my message globally. We achieved this goal, and I am thrilled that today, the message has been embraced by the wider public.
Vegetable cooking is trending. What's happening in the world of plant-based cuisine?
An increasing number of customers are seeking restaurants that offer high-quality, culinary vegetable-based dishes. Consequently, a new generation of chefs is emerging, recognising the creative possibilities of cooking with fruits and vegetables. They have successfully shared this approach widely, in numerous restaurants globally.
Today, high-quality vegetable-based gastronomy is prevalent throughout Belgium and the Netherlands. These countries are pioneers in this field, embracing it with conviction, not simply because it is trendy. This new approach to food appears to be a lasting change.
Naturally, not everyone is fully convinced yet, and numerous countries are still in the initial phases. We are in the process of learning. However, it's evident that people are discovering how tasty vegetables can be and that nothing else is truly necessary.
Customers now understand that it's possible to enjoy delicious food in a plant-based restaurant that is both healthy and flavourful. While health is important, if the food doesn't taste good, people will lose interest in plant-based diets. So, taste is the foundation of everything.
What new innovations are emerging in vegetable cooking?
There are trailblazing restaurants and chefs, like Chef Emile van der Staak of De Nieuwe Winkel in the Netherlands. He is gaining attention with his vegetable-focused cuisine [Editor: Chef Emile utilises fresh, wild vegetables and herbs from the nearby Ketelbroek Food Forest].
Next is chef René Mathieu from Luxembourg. Our We're Smart® Awards have recognised his restaurant, La Distillerie, as the best vegetable restaurant globally. Similar to chef Emile, he incorporates wild harvests into his dishes. Moreover, chef Mathieu is well-versed in the medicinal properties of his ingredients and is knowledgeable about unique flavours. He crafts a narrative around this and creates something exceptionally delicious.
What I have observed in Japan was also quite fascinating. Japan is a nation where nature and the seasons hold a sacred place in the culture, and this must be respected. In modern Japan, more chefs are incorporating nature into their cooking, and plant-based restaurants are emerging throughout the country. This development is truly beautiful.
You now see the same thing happening all over the world. Chefs everywhere are taking the initiative to become pioneers in their countries. Those are the kind of chefs we are looking for, that is the kind of cuisine we want to promote to the public; to hopefully encourage people to choose more restaurants like this.
Similar trends are now visible globally, with chefs worldwide stepping up to become innovators in their respective nations. These are the chefs we seek, and this is the type of cuisine we aim to promote to the public, hoping to inspire more people to choose restaurants like these.
Regarding drinks, have there been any innovations involving vegetables?
Definitely. Rodrigo de la Calle from El Invernadero in Madrid is a chef who inspires us in this regard. He is exceptional not only in preparing vegetable dishes but also in designing custom non-alcoholic vegetable beverages. Rodrigo genuinely creates enchanting experiences.
He offers a selection of over 30 drinks that he has specifically paired with his food recipes. This includes vegetable wines, kefir, kombucha, and even marinated wines. It's an incredibly creative and innovative approach, providing a fresh and enjoyable experience for me. These chefs are all seeking unique ways to set themselves apart using vegetables.
Is it accurate to say that different food and beverage trends are coming together? For example, is the drink 'kombucha' making an appearance both in the health industry and in contemporary plant-based restaurant kitchens?
Definitely! Various culinary trends are merging from the core of society. This is quite evident today. For instance, certain types of medicinal foods are gaining popularity in restaurants, and as chefs we are increasingly learning to be innovative with them.
We are now familiar with numerous chefs who craft their own versions of kefir and beverages like kombucha. They prepare marinades, both hot and cold teas, and incorporate unique herbs. There is a vast array of non-alcoholic drinks that pair well with food, which is an exciting advancement.
Tofu is one product that will always be memorable to me. We usually encounter it in supermarkets. However, when fresh tofu is prepared in a restaurant, it transforms into a creamy texture. It becomes something entirely different from the blocks we're familiar with.
The same applies to tempeh and kombucha. These items are entirely different when served in a restaurant. I know a great spot in Antwerp where you can find kombucha. There, it is much lighter and fresher than the kombucha available commercially. It's all quite fascinating.
Interestingly, the concept of food as a proactive form of medicine has also been gaining prominence. Choosing healthier eating habits over medication can enhance immunity. More individuals are recognising this fact. Hopefully, this trend will become mainstream as well.
What is the current popularity of the vegetable-cooking restaurant?
Restaurants that exclusively serve plant-based and vegetarian meals are booked well in advance. There are still only a few establishments that have adopted this approach. Many restaurants include vegetable dishes alongside their traditional menu. However, those that focus entirely on plant-based, and sometimes even vegan options, are the ones experiencing high demand today.
Consider Eleven Madison Park in New York, led by Chef Daniel Humm. [Editor: Eleven Madison Park was named the world's best restaurant in 2017 and transitioned to a 100% vegetarian menu in 2020]. It is also fully booked months ahead. Many of these restaurants focus on seasonal vegetables, meaning chefs utilise what is currently available and most flavourful, like the asparagus season in Belgium. Consequently, the menus frequently change.
Or take Chef René Redzepi of Noma in Copenhagen, [Editor: a restaurant that has consistently been ranked as the best in the world]. He organises his menu around different seasons: "game" season" [see picture right], fish season, and vegetable season. When the vegetable season starts in June, the restaurant is fully booked from the first day for the next three months! Diners are drawn to restaurants that demonstrate creativity in this style of cooking, which ultimately serves as a marketing strategy.
How easy or difficult is it to start plant-based cooking if you're not used to it?
Some individuals, including chefs, find plant-based cooking challenging. It's a novel concept and differs from what they've traditionally learned. However, the majority of chefs are eager to learn, recognising that vegetable and plant-based cooking represent the future of culinary arts. In fact, that future has already arrived. This is why we offer our '52 culinary techniques' to assist people in getting started. It quickly helps them grasp the vast possibilities with vegetables and fruit.
This is crucial because most people tend to follow the same routine, making food monotonous. It's the diversity in products, techniques, and seasons that allows you to create something remarkable. This is when a vegetable-focused kitchen becomes endlessly fascinating and inventive.
Chef Fol, in conclusion: Are our views on what makes a great dish changing?
Absolutely. There's a lot happening right now. A transformation is taking place, with individuals starting to reconsider their relationship with food. We're becoming more aware of the importance of sustainability, health, and ecology. It seems like we've entered a new era, where about 30% of the population is open to eating more plant-based foods and frequenting such restaurants.
These developments are also evident. Take the menus available on Eurostar train services. We are seeing here that more and more passengers are choosing a completely plant-based menu. These statistics are quite revealing.
Essentially, vegetables have taken centre stage, and an increasing number of people are adding plant-based foods to their weekly diets. Plant-based cooking is on the rise, and there's truly no going back.
Thank you, we greatly appreciate you sharing your insights and providing us with a look into the realm of vegetable and plant-based cuisine!
About Frank Fol
Frank Fol, known as The Vegetable Chef®, is the founder of the We're Smart® World initiative. As a former chef and owner of the Michelin-starred restaurant Sire Pynnock in Belgium, he has been deeply passionate about vegetables and all earth-grown produce for over thirty years, with his culinary focus heavily centered on the use of vegetables and fruit.
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